Tag Archives: modern Australian cuisine

the gushworthy Cutler & Co.

cutler and co menu

A personal, intimate celebration was in order after a very special milestone had been passed. Thus, my partner and I decided to dine at Cutler & Co. one evening. This was some weeks ago now and I can’t stop thinking about it. In fact, I feel like Bubbles from The Wire but instead of concocting schemes to fund my next hit, it’s to fund another visit there to splurge on oysters and cocktails. I am still very much enamoured.

A hospitality friend of mine told me the degustation was essential dining, and so both myself and partner put our trust in this recommendation. To begin, we sipped on gin and tonics – you are given a glass with gin, ice cubes and a lemon wedge. A separate science-lab-style beaker with tonic is provided and you mix the gin and tonic with a chopstick in the glass.

 g&t

After our dietary requirements were confirmed, the first appetiser served was delicate Clair de Lune oysters. I don’t know much about oysters but when I’ve had them at most places, the shell is about the size of my palm. These ones were about half that size, and the shells were much more rounded.

clair de lune oysters

The next appetiser was morsels of slow cooked octopus topped with various things most carefully. I closed my eyes and chewed slowly to savour these as long as possible and enjoy the amalgam of flavours. Just joyous.

slow cooked octopus

The last of the appetisers was a slice of air cured wagyu which you are then meant to wrap around a thin pastry straw modelled on the humble cheese straw. These pastry straws had wasabi in them. One did not seem enough.

air-cured wagyu with wasabi pastry

As well as your choice of warm sourdough or rye bread, you get these whisper-thin parmesan crackers that are made to look like prawn crackers. You know the ones – those ones that melt as soon as they make contact with your tongue. Very sophisticated, but still playful.

parmesan cracker

At this stage, I should mention that just how accommodating the staff were became supremely evident to me. Very tentatively, I asked if it would be possible that instead of both of us having full glasses of wines matched to the course, would it be an option for us to have half glasses. Our waiter and sommelier Ben said that was perfectly okay. This really quite impressed me.

‘Serious’ business can now begin: our tastebuds had been flirted with quite tantalisingly, and the first of the dishes was to be served: an arrangement of cured kingfish, smoked onion, seaweed vinegar, beetroot and rye. It’s composed so carefully on the plate that it seems a shame to begin demolishing it.

cured kingfish, smoked onion, seaweed vinegar, beetroot & rye

The accompanying wine was a 2009 KT & The Falcon ‘Peglidis Vineyard’ riesling. I’m not a massive fan of riesling, and you know why? I clearly haven’t had enough superlative examples of the style. Normally I find them too sweet and cloying, but this one was fairly dry.

The next course was a soup one – we were presented with plates of spanner crab, abalone and sweet corn. A soup of white onion was then carefully poured into the scallopped bowl. The crumbly sweet corn was chilly and because of that, I expected the soup to be like that too, but it was surprisingly warm. Every mouthful kept me guessing with its subtle flavours and unexpected textures.

spanner crab, abalone & sweet corn soup

To match, the 2008 Sutton Grange Syrah viognier rose was served. With hardly a hint of pink in its colour, this wine tasted as understated as it appeared initially. The flavour gradually developed as one drank more of it.

The last of the lighter courses was a raw, cooked and pickled carrot salad with walnut cream and shanklish. When one of the waitresses asked me which of the courses thus far was my favourite, I said that while I couldn’t pick one, I could confirm this as my least favourite though singling it out felt like quite the crime.

raw, cooked and pickled carrot salad, walnut cream & shanklish

At this stage, we were supposed to be served the Romante ‘Regente’ palo cortado – a gorgeous dry, delicately nutty sherry that our waiter said was a bit of a gamble – he said that we’d either hate it or love it. This was my favourite alcoholic pick for the evening – I wanted to take the entire bottle home, cradle it and slurp it up. This sherry wasn’t actually served with the dish as intended and the sommelier was visibly annoyed by miscalculating the number of dishes we were up to. He insisted we drink this delightful number with compliments of the restaurant. Neither myself nor partner were at all put out by the supposed mistake.

The first meat course of mandarin duck was then brought out to us. Different parts of the duck were used – crisp leg and smoked fillet. This was served with a fois gras ‘cigar’. The smoked fillet was just sublime and the fois gras a little sweet. Good thing cigars really aren’t made of fois gras or I’d be a chronic smoker…

 mandarin duck - crisp leg, smoked fillet & foie gras cigar

This was coupled with the 2008 Hoddles Creek pinot noir and I had trouble drinking it in a restrained manner. An excellent complement to the dish as it didn’t compete in flavour with the duck but rather augmented it.

Oh the red meat course of wood grilled Rangers Valley short rib. Melt-in-your-mouth beef with the perfect amount of fat marbled through the meat. As I ate this, my mind constantly chanted “savour, Gem, savour, chew slowly“.

 wood grilled rangers valley short rib

At this stage I shall have to admit that I don’t remember as much about the 2007 Domaine Darnaud ‘La Vendeima’ St Joseph shiraz served as I’d like. Up to this point, many of the wines had a very similar mouthfeel – light, thin, crisp (yes, even the pinot). The shiraz was naturally fuller in body.

Now to begin the dessert stages with a edible sculpture of sheep’s milk yoghurt, carrot granita and mandarin. The yoghurt possesses no sour taste and is silky. This course on the whole is not too sweet, and that makes it all the more pleasing.

 sheep's milk yoghurt, mandarin and carrot granita

The accompanying wine was the 2008 Pegasus Bay ‘Aria’ riesling which was sweet but not too sticky and ever so slightly syrupy in mouthfeel.

I’d managed to be on my best behaviour this far but when the violet ice cream, chocolate ganache and sour cherry ending to the meal was presented, I scoffed it down pretty quickly. It was bursts of not too sweet, pucker-mouth-sour and tart and creamy goodness. I judge it to be the dish that will unleash your child-like glee.

violet ice cream, chocolate ganache, sour cherry

The closing alcoholic beverage was the Mas Amiel ’10 ans d’age’ – a tawny port-like experience. As to be expected, we were presented with petit fours and I opted to have Earl Grey tea which came in a hefty iron pot.

Upon settling the account, as we left, we were politely asked if we needed a taxi to be called for us. Our sommelier Ben was kind enough to print out a list of our courses and matching wines upon request for us to take home.

Everything about Cutler & Co. speaks refined, polished and yet not one bit intimidating. Your experience starts as soon as you enter the door and I’m awed by how seamless the service is – they really make you feel like you’re the only person they are looking after. Absolutely recommended for special occasions when you want to be fussed over. Weeks after my first time there, I am still gushing in earnest.

Cutler & Co on Urbanspoon

edit (16/2/2016): Belinda from OpenTable suggested I add an online link to make bookings to the restaurant which is pretty useful info so I’ll include one. Please note that I do not receive any gratuities for doing this and cling to the naive belief that it might be helpful, honest!

sometimes I hate the ‘burbs…with good reason

I hate Mothers’ Day, just like I hate birthdays and Christmas. Yes, even my own birthday. Hallmark holidays are incredibly stressful. Such days like this are a little harder to coordinate with my brother getting married, but that is life. I didn’t realise it at the time, but my father had made arrangements for us all to dine out for Mothers’ Day thinking that his selfish children had not bothered to organise anything for Mum. I have to confess, I still feel pretty awful about that, especially as the place we went to was pretty awful.

I have mentioned before that my folks don’t really like to travel much to go out to nice places because they hate the parking and looking up directions and such so I thought nothing was wrong with Dad organising for us all to go to the local cafe-restaurant Nova Vista in Mill Park. It’s about two kilometres from my parents’ place so you can make a mad dash home after eating. They had a special reduced three-course menu for Mothers’ Day which was very wise, I thought.

There weren’t many vegetarian options so I made it a pescetarian night (I do like to go veg on occasion). Mum had the bruschetta with tomato, basil and bocconcini. It looks fine but she wasn’t particularly happy with it.

bruschetta

Dad had the antipasto platter with the usual suspects. It was…passable. I guess it would have been haute cuisine for the 80s.

antipasto platter

I had the salt and pepper squid as did my sister-in-law. Again, not the sort of stuff that inspires great books of literature to be written. Flavourless but to their credit not rubbery. I love it when it’s fresh and cooked well but lots of places stuff it up.

salt and pepper squid

I think the following main is pretty appalling, so I’ll just get it out of the way. Mum and I both chose the swordfish fillet. At the bloodline, it was raw. Yes, sashimi-raw. Both my parents are horrified by the idea of raw fish so this was unforgivable.

Here’s what the dish looked like. Not ground-breaking cuisine, no, but it looks okay, don’t you think?

swordfish fillet

Here’s what the fish fillet looked like once you cut into it. I am not exaggerating about the sashimi rawness.

badly cooked swordfish

Mum’s was worse than mine, and she did inform the staff. The manager came out and offered her a free drink of her choice which she declined. He was very apologetic about the incident.

My brother ordered a chicken parma which was left unfinished. I asked him what was so bad about it and he said it just didn’t taste nice. I’ve never seen my brother leave a parma ever. I’m tempted to argue it’s un-Australian. Seriously, you won’t catch me leaving one unfinished either. I’ll leave the chips but never ever the parma. I hope I’ve stressed enough how seriously I revere the parma. Sadly, my love for the parma hasn’t protected me from the occasional racist abuse from yobs with shitty taste in beer (I happen to be brown).

chicken parmagiana

Dad’s main was probably the best but he was far from pleased with it – the 400g rib eye. He maintains that the reason he ordered steak here was to see how it compared to his own – he cooks a mean steak. He wasn’t impressed that his had a lot of gristle.

400g rib eye grill

Seeing as a set amount was paid per head for all three courses, dessert was ordered by us all. Most of us had the pavlova roulade. Nice, but nothing special. The pavlova was delightfully light which was exactly what I needed after a big meal, even if it did remind me of hospital food. You probably think I’m joking but last time I was in hospital, there was a mad clamour for Sunday evening pav – it’s pretty hard to screw it up.

pavlova roulade

Two of the party had the sticky date pudding, and thus was the end of what felt like special school camp afters.

sticky date pudding

Nova Vista used to be so much better – it wasn’t too bad when it first opened, but the standard has really dropped. I actually love their three cheese gnocchi (its quality differs as the cooks have yet to discover the beauty of the sauce burner on their stoves) on the regular menu but lately I’ve had some appalling culinary experiences (for instance, under no circumstances do I recommend their soup of the day – it is tasteless and I’ve had better things come out of cans or sachets). The staff are nice, but I don’t intend to go back here ever. If any food staff are reading this, this is pretty much a post on how not to do things if you have a food establishment. Oh well, all of the major fast food joints are nearby and at least they are consistent no matter what ‘burb you’re in: sometimes that can be a good thing.

Nova Vista on Urbanspoon

beautiful dining space, lacklustre dining experience

My mother celebrates Easter, but I do not, being a heathen much to the chagrin, oddly enough of my non-practising Hindu father (no, I don’t get it either). Mum asked if she might have dinner with me and my partner, and wanting to keep the peace whilst my father is abroad for the funeral of his sister, I of course agreed.

Mum normally likes to keep her venturing local, unless it’s for a special occasion. Thinking her preferred local eatery was closed for the religious holiday, I booked for us to eat at Wesley Anne in Northcote.

Wesley Anne, dining area

See the delightfully romantic booths in the dining area in my admittedly appalling photo? We were not seated in them. Despite it being empty, we were put on a table so that all pedestrian traffic could squeeze past our table to get at the loo or outdoors. I’ve seen it remarked on Foursquare (did I just cite Foursquare?! Yes, I’m afraid I did) that the staff seem either vacant, or just plain distracted by goodness knows what. As we waited for our entrée, we were given a small plate of bread rolls, with olive oil and balsamic. Um, is one bread plate each too much to ask, guys?

 bread rolls with olive oil and balsamic vinegar

Mum and partner weren’t very hungry, so I suggested that we share the mussels in white wine amongst the three of us. Too bad it wasn’t fish or we’d have that Jesus thing down-pat (joke). Oh gosh, the mussels were very good. Partner reminded us all to save our bread to mop up the remnants of the sauce. It isn’t classy to do it, I’m sure, but I’d do it again.

 mussels with white wine

I suspect by how quiet Mum and partner were that I might have chosen the best main out of the lot – the French creamy chicken and bacon pie with mash and peas. More hearty, rustic food. The mash was pretty ordinary and quite dry (seriously, I’ve better mash made by non-foodies), so I left it begrudgingly despite my mash-love but put my peas in to get the leftover pie juice. That sounds a bit wrong but it wasn’t thick enough to call sauce as such. I was tucking into my pie with such gusto that I completely forgot to try what I assume was tomato sauce, as pictured below.

 chicken and bacon pie

Mum had the Wesley Anne’s take on chicken Maryland, which supposedly was Mexican (she said it tasted very Indian-inspired), and supposedly on pilaf. I’m a bit stumped as to why they drowned the so-called pilaf in sauce (yes, this time it’s sauce!) as that sort of ruins the fluffiness of pilaf. Mum didn’t utter a compliment once about the dish, which made me feel a little guilty about dragging her out all this way for unimpressive food. She did also note at one stage that a couple had come in and summarily inspected the menu and dashed off without ordering anything. Not a good sign. With a bit of pressing a few days later, she admitted she didn’t like her dish at all.

 chicken maryland

My partner had the pork salad, which sadly was very lacklustre. The amalgam of flavours from different cuisines suggested it didn’t quite know what it was, or what it wanted to achieve.

 pork salad

I am ashamed to say that the entire time here, I did not once imbibe an alcoholic beverage. Wine-lovers will appreciate the variety of the list, but I was in the mood for a decent beer and nothing took my fancy. Its atmosphere is a bit confusing: while on one hand it seems very plush and sophisticated, the service seems to indicate the contrary. It is standard practice at many pubs to help yourself to a menu and order at the counter, but that doesn’t mean that you have to forsake good customer service. There are dozens of other bars and restaurants on that strip of High St (some of my notables include the Northcote Social Club, and Kelvin). Having said all of that, because its location is 15-20 minutes out of the city, and it’s also a bike-ridable distance for me, I’d go again for a barhop especially since learning from Beer Bar Band that they had Mountain Goat Steam Ale on tap (I’m so kicking myself for not realising when I was there, sigh).

Note: photographs reproduced with kind permission of this kind fellow.

Wesley Anne on Urbanspoon