Tag Archives: cassoulet

duckfesting at the Provincial

For many of us, Anna is the most prolific food blogger who doesn’t blog and boy can she organise a food blog wankster get-together. Perhaps she is the elusive Helena Lewis that The Age keep referring to whenever they need ‘commentary’ from ‘food bloggers’?

Naw, Anna’s far too adorable and is as consummate a cookie-foodie as she is an eatie one. It came time, she felt, to organise another beloved #duckfest and thus, Tristan and I were in attendance. On this particular occasion, we were treated to the expertise of chef Paul Cooper at the Provincial Hotel in Fitzroy.

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I still remember the first #duckfest I went to that Anna organised. I am ashamed to admit that perhaps I did…let loose: did I really need an entire bottle of pinot with my duck? I still haven’t stopped being sorry to my fellow diners for my conduct though many were ridiculously gracious about the affair, bless.

Lesson learnt, and this #duckfest was a good deal more formal with a tantalising four-course menu being put together for our delectation. Being unfashionably late and stuck in traffic, the canapé of duck rillette on brioche was politely set aside for me by Tristan and my table companions. Of course, it was scoffed down upon arrival.

Our first official course was duck neck sausage, served Lyonnais-style with duck heart and liver, then finished off with poached duck eggs. Everything was perfectly balanced and so artfully arranged on the plate. Surprisingly, a gooey egg yolk set off the gaminess of the duck and its related offal really well. What a thrilling start to our #duckfest!

Our second course encouraged us to get our communal, interact-with-your-fellow-diners on: a bowl of duck cassoulet with pork belly and Toulouse sausage, finished in their wood oven. It was served in a deep bowl.

Seasoned duckfester Billy volunteered to plate up for me, Tris and Bec, seated next to me. Of course, he did a stellar job of divvying up the dish for our quartet, as the photo below can attest.

Not my first time having a cassoulet, having tried the one at Libertine in North Melbourne (which stands unreviewed but you can read reviews of two trips here and here) and also a top one cooked by eatie-cookie-foodie-academic Tammi, whose recipe can be found on her fabbo blog. Just the thing to stave off a cold, wet Melbourne winter evening. The duck and pork belly were deliciously crispy and the beans a perfect complement. And the best thing? There was enough for small second helpings!

Slowly approaching being all ‘meated’ out, our last savoury course still needed to be fitted in: pan-roasted duck breast alongside a caramelised endive and bacon tart fine, finished with rhubarb purée and duck à l’orange sauce. Naturally, the duck was the star of the show but the tart! what a glorious accompaniment, especially with the slightly acidic sauces.

It goes without saying, though I’ll say it anyway, everyone has room for dessert! Our last course: pumpkin seed frozen nougat and chocolate mousse adorned with almonds and honeycomb. Yes, the duckiness has officially come to a close. A great close to a duckfest with a heavy French cuisine slant.

As our party occupied more than one large table, not all of us got to talk to our fellow diners. It was most heartening to see that one guest on another table had brought his young son – a food blogger in training perhaps? He’s perfectly happy to try and get some good ‘money’ shots!

He probably got some good photos of the crew in medias res, but I like the calm after the storm too: no evidence of the frenzy that would have been preparing our delicious meal.

Thanks again, Anna, our beloved duck enabler for organising a lovely ducktacular feast and here’s to the next one! Where will she choose for us, next time?

The Provincial Hotel / Cafe Provincial on Urbanspoon

third wave to the power of two

freestyle espresso menu

South Melbourne – home of the brothel! At least that’s what my rudimentary ‘research’ (Googling) has led me to conclude. It makes sense – South Melbourne is primarily a business district; lots of workers need to be ‘serviced’, apparently.

Now the only thing South Melbourne seems to have more of (than brothels) is third-wave coffee places. Between St Ali, Dead Man Espresso, Padre and a slew a smaller cafés the area’s not exactly a coffeeless wasteland. That’s why I was a little surprised when I happened upon a still-being-renovated Freestyle Espresso a few months back, whilst causing a ruckus in the back-streets of South Melbourne (read: lunch-time stroll). Once back in the office I utilised my computer to ‘research’ the venue, and seeing that its presence had already caused a disturbance in the ‘force’ (in food blogger wankster circles), I took a mental note to check back in when it had opened. Fast-forward a month, and the lovely Ms G and I were in South Melbourne, hungry and looking for breakfast action.

moroccan mint tea

Walking into the place it all looked rather pretty – cute little tables, polished concrete floors and pristine shelves of gourmet foodstuffs; not at all out of place amongst the more seasoned South Melbourne cafés. Happy in the place’s ‘swishness’ I moseyed on up to the counter, ordering a latte and Moroccan mint tea to wet our whistles. The tea as pictured above, came in a cute and oh-so-shiny teapot. The tea itself was quite sweet and refreshing, and Ms G seemed to enjoy it immensely.

latte

Opting for my default latte (as I do when confronted with a new venue), I found the coffee to be very drinkable, but not in the same oh-my-gawd league as some of the aforementioned cafés.

We grabbed some of the gorgeous menus (pictured above) and began to scrutinise them over at our table, and scrutinise we did –  we were like two hipsters at an op shop, poring over piles of clothing to clad our fashionably emaciated frames, only to lock eyes on the same outrageously ‘ironic’ 80s rainbow coloured mohair cardigan.

welsh rarebit

In our case the delicious ‘cardigan’ of the morning was the Welsh rarebit. Being the utter gent (or lord, as my brothers would say) I acquiesced to Ms G having the rarebit. From her account it was a tasty bit of fare, and from the mouthful I had it was a good bit of winter food.

cassoulet with streaky bacon and an egg on top

In recent times I’ve had a gaggle (or is that swarm?) of good cassoulets (Libertine, Cafe Vue at Heide), so spotting the cassoulet with streaky bacon with the offer of an egg on top (a free set of steak knives is the home shopping equivalent) I was sold. However reality did not quite meet my home shopping network exceptions: what I was presented with was not cassoulet. It ostensibly had the cassoulet ingredients, but really tasted more like a standard breakfast of bacon, sausages, egg and beans.  As Ms G noted, stewed beans with assorted other ingredients in a dish does not make cassoulet. Also, being a man of ‘large appetite’ the meal felt a little small, and could have done with a piece of sourdough or similar to hold it together.

While I may have had some issues with the food, the staff were fantastic. Extremely friendly and informative, with the barista giving me a run down on their house coffee, Allpress. While the coffee isn’t at the same level as some others in the area, and there are a few ‘teething’ issues with food,  I will most certainly be back to give the café another try.

padre signage

Given the lacklustre coffee at Freestyle, and the ominous ‘headlight wiper of doom’ spotted in the street (not to be confused with Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom) Ms G and I decided to navigate the unwashed masses at South Melbourne Market and pick up a coffee at Padre.

latte

The crowds waiting for their Saturday morning fix was a good sign; I thrust Ms G into the line, requesting a latte with the house blend. It was delicious. While I’m not a coffee snob (at present), I do ‘know what I like’ and this was it. I can’t recall the exact flavours, but it reminds me of the blend used at Cup of Truth.

long black

Ms G, the real man in the relationship (not to be confused with ‘The real Julia’) got a long black, delivered in a gorgeous bit of crockery. For her it wasn’t bitter, and very flavoursome in a savoury way.

The wait staff seemed very attentive and efficient, even amongst the fury of Saturday morning markets. If you’re in the area on the weekend or during the market’s weekday trading hours and need your ‘fix’, this is the place for it.

Freestyle Espresso on Urbanspoon Padre Coffee on Urbanspoon

some art, an interstate visitor and a fantastic lunch

Heidelberg in Melbourne in the late nineteenth century had quite the burgeoning art scene. The Museum of Modern Art at Heide in Bulleen is one such place you can still visit that exists as testament to the area’s past and also to showcase contemporary art. I am ashamed to admit that one gorgeous Sunday, it took a visit from a dear interstate guest Kathleen for me to revisit. I’d been about a decade ago to see some Picasso etchings. We were joined by Rob and C, both of whom are originally from Perth and more frequent visitors to Heide despite not living quite as near as I do.

Bad, bad me.

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So five of us decided to lunch at the adjacent Cafe Vue before entering the gallery. Mel, who is practically a sister to Tris was on duty and rushed out for a quick hug and greet before we were seated.

All of us chose items from the menu du jour, except C who went with the scrumptious lunchbox of the day.

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For just $15, a serve of cassoulet, beetroot panzanella salad, chicken sausage roll with bois boudran, and pistachio and white chocolate eclair could be yours on the day. Doesn’t it all look appetising and wonderfully presented? It’s like a grown-up box of (culinary) surprises!

From the menu du jour you can have your choice of two courses for $35 or three courses for $45. The day that we lunched there were two each for entrées, mains and dessert. There was also a selection of sides if you wished to bulk up your meal.

Kathleen and I had the same entrée – the bresaola with parmesan mousse and horseradish grissini. Oh wow. Flavoursome cured meat with mouthfuls of sometimes fiery mousse, cheese, rocket and grissini – simple yet so satisfying. It was presented on a wooden board. I reckon this should be a permanent item.

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Rob and Tris had the very unusual snail spring rolls with green curry sauce. I thought the spring rolls would be wimpy but they were the size of cigars. Yup, the green curry sauce comes in a cute jar. If you’re a bit wary of trying snails in true French style, then this is definitely a fine introduction – they’re not too ‘snaily’ (killing it in the wordsmith department today, eh?).

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Menu du jour continues! The lads selected the same main – the confit pork cheek, bubble and squeak with calvados jus. I got a taste and it was heavenly though the pork crackling was a little chewy as R noted.

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Us gals got the shellfish cassoulet with fillet of roasted sea bream. The cassoulet was okay, but the bream and pesto was extraordinary. The cassoulet had nothing whatsoever wrong with it, I think I just prefer mine with duck and sausages and partially blame wonder-woman extraordinaire Tammi’s at her place not so long ago!

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While C nibbled on her pistachio and white chocolate eclair with the grass green icing, Kathleen splashed out and got dessert, again from the special menu. She chose the deconstructed blood orange tart.

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Also, don’t forget the freshly squeezed orange juice! With a paper straw in the cutest bottle. We may have had a bit of a laugh over the coffee cups…yeah, yeah, call us snobs. Their non-coffee crockery is actually really stylish.

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Excellent company, wonderful food and an afternoon to check out the Carol Jerrems photography exhibition – just the perfect Sunday. I’ll be back more often.

Café Vue at Heide on Urbanspoon