Archive for January, 2010

you don’t win girls with cheap stout…?

I recently finished reading an excellent Australian literary journal called Heat and it had a piece on a fellow called William Stanley Jevons. Jevons is remarkable for many reasons, but what amused me about the essay was that on Christmas Day, he went to a pub and paid an appropriate fare for a traditional Christmas dinner. You know how the English love their traditions: while English-born myself, I have never quite understood why on Earth the traditional festive roast remains so popular. This country, as I like to point out like the whingeing Pom I am, is bloody hot. I could definitely get into the whole seafood platter as an Aussie Christmas thing instead of turning the kitchen into a furnace.

Back to Jevons. He is at the table and seated with a pretty lady. Too shy to talk, he downs a pint of stout to attract her attention, and invariably impress her. Silly fellow. Stout is not a beer for downing quickly, and not in the heat. Also, he didn’t impress her.

Interestingly enough, I was a girl once impressed by stout: and a rough one at that – the Abbotsford Invalid Stout.

Abbotsford Invalid Stout

It was a second date of sorts. I had invited my date to my place for a Joy Division listening session. It had come up in conversation that I’d never tried the AIS. My date showed up, with a bottle in tow, and had sweetly tied a piece of old-fashioned twine around it in a bow. It seemed pretty evident that both of us were as nervous as hell. Less so, once conversation moved to the beer. The AIS is what I lovingly refer to as a ‘rough worker’s stout’ and not at all to belittle it. Yes, it’s cheap, and perhaps beer snobs may say plain nasty.

I have a soft spot for it. I expect to be shunned from now on by true beer gourmets.

The other day, Control was on telly (the biopic on Ian Curtis, Joy Division’s front man) and I asked that same fellow if he wouldn’t mind buying me some AIS – pure coincidence! He made me a ‘Black and Tan’ – am informed that this is largely ¾ lager, ¼ stout. Feel free to edit to your taste, of course. It was only fitting that seeing we were using AIS, we used an equally ‘rough Tan’ – so we pinched a remaining Carlton Cold from my father’s stash. I must say, I rather liked the ‘Black and Tan’. It’s like shandy, but for the manly! Alas, couldn’t get my father to try it – he looked very suspiciously at it.

I rather wish I made some for Australia Day just passed. Not to worry, I sunk down ‘tinnies’ of Toohey’s New instead, giggle. I wasn’t about to refuse free beer.

bring your mother

I find myself strangely alone in the hallowed halls of EDS this past week as the rest of the staffers spend some time north of the border for a mini-getaway. This would explain the lack of posts of late, as well as the moaning and groaning that’s common around these parts; all food-related, of course.

So while Gem and Tris are out galavanting and sampling the myriad of tastes that Sydney has to offer, and which you’ll no doubt read about soon, I’m here holding the fort in Melbourne and slaving away for another review.

And what better way to do that than to head to a venue that is as far removed from the glamour of the Sin City as possible: my local Thai takeaway restaurant.

Suburban eateries are like your long-time fuck buddies: handy, comfortable, filling and reliable. They’re a guilty pleasure; something that fulfils the need when effort proves too much. A standard that you come back time and again to but not necessarily bring back home to meet mother. And while you may extol their virtues to others, there’s the greedy hope that you’ll one day keep him for yourself and maybe settle down and have two dogs and a cat, and maybe a baby because he has such beautiful eyes and a cute smile and… Wait, I’m getting my metaphors mixed up.

Anyway, suburban eateries.

In the heart of Laverton’s shopping strip, you will find an unassuming, nondescript-looking shop front that leads into one of the southwest’s newest hidden gems. Fresh Chilli Thai Restaurant is your traditional suburban eatery with a twist. Here you’ll find an extensive menu including the usual Thai fares of curries, rice and noodle classics. However, instead of cheap laminex tables, scratchy metal chairs and dust-covered Asian decorations on the walls, you’ll discover a nicely appointed modern interior with homely ambiance. It’s your local Thai, all grown up.

On my Saturday night visit for dinner, our group of four ordered, along with several entrees, a selection of dishes that included red prawn curry, cashew beef, sweet and sour chicken, and prawn and calamari in oyster sauce. All were reasonably portioned with generous helpings of vegetables and meat. A person in the group was surprised to see so much cashews with his beef, being a fan of the bent nut.

My red curry came out in a medium-sized bowl filled with a soup of mildly spicy flavours and slivers of soft bamboo shoots along with plump pieces of prawns. Served over a heap of steaming jasmine rice and it was nomilicious. In fact, everyone commented at how tender the meats and how light the sauces were; a stark difference to the usual toughness and thick sickliness found in other lesser eateries. Certainly, from my previous visit, I found the green chicken curry and red duck to be the same. Even the oft-popular Pad Thai had a lighter and fresher (*groan*) flavour at Fresh Chilli.

 

Pad Med
Pad Med – lots of cashews and beef

 

Red Curry
Red prawn curry – the bamboo shoots were delicious

 

Fresh Chilli is popular with the locals, both as a dine-in and takeaway, and so the place can be a little noisy when filled to capacity. But still, the food will win you over every time. The bar is stocked with several wine listings, both red and white, with a few available by the glass. They also offer a number of imported Asian beers, along with the local brews. My tip, however: make use of the free BYO (that’s right, no corkage!) and bring in your favourite tipple. Whilst not recommended, the table next to ours brought a whole esky along, giving a whole new meaning to the term. That’s the west for ya!

Aptly named, Fresh Chilli Thai Restaurant proves to be a fresh addition to an otherwise lacklustre strip out in the suburbs, and one that you will certainly come back time and again to. Even with your mum.

Fresh Chilli Thai Restaurant is located at Shop 1, 1-5 Aviation Road, Laverton. Ph (03) 9369 3796. Bookings recommended. http://www.fresh-chilli.com.au

More photos over at my Flickr page.

 

Fresh Chilli Thai Restaurant on Urbanspoon

greedy, greedy eyes

Anyone who’s ever been dragged along as a child to the smorgasbord eateries of ol’, such as Smorgy’s and Sizzlers, would be familiar with the gleam of greed that flashes over the eyes of patrons as they survey the masses of all-you-can-eat food heaped on so many bain-maries. It’s a glutton’s paradise. And while this buffet-style of dining is certainly great value for money, especially those on a family budget, it’s fair to say that the quality of the fare often leaves one wanting and reaching for the over-priced drinks. After all, it’s fry-and-serve, mass production.

Skip many years later and that same gleam of greed is still there. But this time, and with some luck, the look has become tempered by superior dining experiences: Asian banquets, Greek feasts, yumcha sessions and degustation menus.

It was this voracious look that remained on my face from the moment fellow EDS staffers, Tris and Gem, suggested we try MoVida’s Degustation Dinner Menu (for the purpose of research, of course) right up until the moment I was polishing off the last delicious morsel of Spanish feed.

Currently, MoVida Bar de Tapas holds prime position on Urbanspoon’s list of Best Melbourne Restaurants – you’ll find it equally listed amongst the top in many other foodie sites – and with good reason. The food is simply amazing. Imagine all those childhood memories of sweet homely cooking, sprinkled with the virginal excitement of trying something completely new, wrapped in a delectable cocoon that comes from an orgasmic dining experience. Serve on a plate.

The strength of MoVida lies in its tapas – small dishes that are served and best eaten shared – and this is where their degus is perfect. A 10-course menu, the tapas are chosen by the chef and varies each evening. Aside from dietary habits and food allergy concerns, the choices of dishes are entirely within the whim of the people who make them. It’s a gamble, but one that has delicious pay-off, just like what happened on the night we went.

Our first round of courses consisted of anchovy served on crouton with tomato sorbet, fine slices of jamon (Spanish ham) and leek and mahon fried croquettes. The anchovies were an absolute standout; the sorbet was a complete but wonderful surprise. Everyone commented on the delicate balance between the earthy saltiness of the fish and the sweet, almost popping texture of the sorbet. I couldn’t shove it down quick enough, but apparently such things should be savoured slowly. Pfft.

 

Anchoa
Anchoa – hand filleted Cantabrian artisan anchovy on crouton with smoked tomato sorbet

 

Jamon
Jamon – Iberico imported organic Spanish Jabugo jamon. Fully acorn fed, 3 years naturally cured.

 

Second lot of servings included roasted scallop with jamon and potato foam, slices of mackerel served with gazpacho sorbet and smoked piquillo pepper. Again, the dishes pleased but my personal favourite was the scallop; such bursts of flavour from the foam. The peppers were handy for picking between the dishes.

 

Viera
Viera - roasted Spring Bay scallop with jamon and potato foam

 

For the third and final courses of dishes, we were served something a little more substantial: seared pieces of rabbit leg on pureed spinach, braised beef cheeks with cauliflower mash and a side of sautéed chickpeas. The trio worked well together with tastes complementing each dish, though I found the tartness of the cauliflower mash overwhelmed the moreish flavour of the beef.

 

Conejo
Conejo - Andalucian sweet sour farmed rabbit legs with almonds on a bed of pureed spinach served with roasted French mushrooms

 

Carillera
Carillera y Garbanzos – slowly braised beef cheek in Pedro Ximenez on cauliflower puree, served with a side of sauteed spinach with chickpeas & spices

 

But the best dish of all was most definitely the Cecina: air-cured thinly slices of wagyu beef, served with white truffle foam and a poached egg. Upon arriving at the table, it was met with collective oohs followed by ahhs as the wait staff demonstrated how the dish was to be served: break the egg yolk, swirl the foam and mix the beef for a mouth-watering display of white-red-yellow colours. Eaten with generous helpings of pan (bread) and you can see why this dish was awarded 2007 ‘Dish of the Year’ by The Age Food Guide.

 

Cecina
Cecina – air cured wagyu beef thinly sliced with a truffle foam and poached egg; MoVida’s signature award-winning dish

 

Look, some people might consider gleams of greed – and plate licking – to be undesirable traits and usually they’d be right, but with places like MoVida, these aren’t only acceptable but most truly deserved.

MoVida Bar de Tapas is located on 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne. There’s also MoVida Next Door (1 Hosier Lane) and the recently opened Movida Aqui and Terraza (Level 1, 500 Bourke Street). Ph (03) 9663 3038. Bookings essential.

For more photos, visit my Flick page.

 

MoVida Bar de Tapas on Urbanspoon

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